Common brick problems are inevitable in any masonry structure. Brick is one of the most durable building materials on earth, but it is not immune to weather, moisture, age, and improper maintenance. The good news is that every common brick problem has a proven solution — if you catch it early.
The challenge for most homeowners is knowing what to look for, understanding how serious each problem is, and deciding whether a DIY fix or professional repair is appropriate.
In this guide, we cover the 8 most common brick problems, explain what causes each one, show you how to identify them during a simple walk-around inspection, and recommend the correct repair for each. Every recommendation comes from our team at North Shore Brickwork, who fix these problems daily.
8 Most Common Brick Problems (Quick Reference)
Here is a quick-reference table of the most common brick problems, ranked by severity:
Problem | Severity | Cause | Typical repair cost |
Structural cracks | Critical | Foundation movement, overloading | $500 – $5,000+ |
Mortar deterioration | Critical | Age, freeze-thaw, moisture | $300 – $10,000 |
Brick spalling | Serious | Water infiltration, freeze-thaw | $15 – $35 per brick |
Water infiltration | Serious | Failed mortar, missing flashing | $500 – $5,000 |
Chipped/broken bricks | Serious | Impact, freeze-thaw, age | $10 – $30 per brick |
Loose/displaced bricks | Serious | Mortar failure, settlement | $200 – $1,500 |
Efflorescence | Cosmetic | Salt deposits from moisture | $100 – $500 |
Discolouration/fading | Cosmetic | UV exposure, weathering | $200 – $1,000 |
Understanding which common brick problems are structural and which are cosmetic helps you prioritise repairs and allocate your budget effectively.
Structural Cracks: The Most Serious Common Brick Problem
Cracks are among the most common brick problems because they can indicate structural movement. However, not all cracks are equally serious.
Types of cracks and what they mean
Hairline cracks (under 1 mm): Usually caused by normal thermal expansion and contraction. Monitor annually but rarely require immediate repair.
Stair-step cracks: These follow the mortar joints in a stepped pattern. They typically indicate foundation settlement or differential movement. Professional assessment is essential.
Horizontal cracks: Often caused by lateral pressure from soil or water against a wall. This is one of the most serious common brick problems and may indicate structural failure.
Vertical cracks: Can result from thermal expansion, overloading, or settlement. Severity depends on width and whether the crack is active (still growing) or stable.
How to assess crack severity
Crack width | Severity | Action needed |
Under 1 mm | Minor | Monitor annually, no immediate repair |
1 – 3 mm | Moderate | Repoint and seal, monitor for growth |
3 – 5 mm | Serious | Professional assessment, structural repair |
Over 5 mm | Critical | Immediate structural engineer evaluation |
The Structural Engineering Institute recommends that any crack wider than 3 mm in a load-bearing brick wall should be evaluated by a licensed structural engineer before repair.
Mortar Deterioration: The Most Common Brick Problem Overall
Mortar joint failure is the single most common brick problem. Mortar has a lifespan of 25–50 years, while bricks can last 100+ years. This means every brick building will eventually need mortar repair.
Signs of mortar deterioration
Crumbling or sandy mortar: Run your finger along a joint. If mortar crumbles or turns to powder, it has lost its binding strength.
Receding joints: Mortar that appears sunken or recessed below the brick face has eroded and needs repointing.
Gaps between mortar and brick: Visible separation indicates the bond has failed, allowing water to infiltrate.
Vegetation growth in joints: Plants growing from mortar joints indicate advanced deterioration with enough space for roots to take hold.
The correct fix: repointing
The only effective repair for deteriorated mortar is repointing — removing old mortar to a depth of 15–25 mm and replacing it with fresh, colour-matched mortar. Surface-level patching (skim coating) over failed mortar does not work and typically falls off within 1–2 years.
💡 Critical mortar rule
The replacement mortar must be softer than or equal to the brick’s hardness. Using Portland cement mortar on soft or historic brick causes the brick to spall and crack — making the problem worse than if left unrepaired. This is the most common mistake in DIY brick repair and one of the most damaging common brick problems we see.
Brick Spalling: When Bricks Crack, Flake, and Crumble
Spalling is one of the most visible common brick problems. It occurs when the outer face of a brick breaks away in chips, flakes, or layers, exposing the softer interior.
What causes brick spalling
Freeze-thaw cycling: Water enters the brick through micro-pores or failed mortar joints. When it freezes, it expands 9%, breaking the brick surface from within. Milwaukee’s 70+ annual freeze-thaw cycles make this especially common.
Wrong mortar type: Portland cement mortar traps moisture inside the brick rather than allowing it to escape through the joints. The trapped water freezes and causes spalling from the inside out.
Sealed brick surfaces: Non-breathable sealants trap moisture behind the surface. When this moisture freezes, it pushes the face off the brick.
Salt damage: Road salt, de-icing chemicals, and salt-laden groundwater crystallise inside brick pores, creating pressure that breaks the surface.
How to fix spalling bricks
Individual spalled bricks can be replaced by cutting out the damaged brick and mortaring in a matching replacement. If spalling is widespread across a wall, the underlying moisture source must be identified and fixed first — otherwise new bricks will spall too.
Replacement bricks should match the original in size, colour, and texture. Using breathable mortar (lime-based for historic buildings) ensures moisture can escape through joints rather than through brick faces.
Efflorescence: White Salt Deposits on Brickwork
Efflorescence is one of the most recognisable common brick problems. It appears as a white, powdery or crystalline deposit on the brick surface.
What causes efflorescence
Efflorescence occurs when water dissolves soluble salts within the brick, mortar, or substrate. As the water evaporates from the surface, it leaves the salt crystals behind as a white residue.
The presence of efflorescence always indicates moisture movement through the masonry. While the white deposit itself is harmless, the underlying moisture that causes it can lead to more serious common brick problems like spalling and mortar deterioration.
How to remove and prevent efflorescence
Removal: Scrub with a stiff-bristle brush and clean water. For stubborn deposits, use a diluted vinegar solution or a proprietary efflorescence cleaner. Avoid acid-based cleaners on coloured mortar.
Prevention: Address the moisture source. This may involve repointing failed mortar, fixing gutters and downspouts, improving drainage, or applying a breathable masonry sealant that repels surface water while allowing internal moisture to escape.
The Brick Industry Association confirms that efflorescence is an indicator of moisture movement and should be treated as a diagnostic sign rather than just a cosmetic issue.
Chipped and Broken Bricks: Assessment and Repair
Chipped and broken bricks are common brick problems that range from minor cosmetic damage to structural concerns depending on severity and extent.
When to repair vs replace
Damage type | Repair method | DIY possible? |
Small chip (under 25 mm) | Fill with colour-matched mortar repair compound | Yes (ground level) |
Large chip exposing interior | Large chip exposing the interior | Possible (ground level) |
Cracked through | Replace brick entirely | Professional recommended |
Multiple adjacent broken bricks | Wall section assessment and repair | Professional required |
For single brick replacement, the damaged brick is carefully chiselled out, the cavity cleaned, and a matching replacement brick mortared in. The mortar must be colour-matched to the existing joints for a seamless finish.
Water Infiltration: The Root Cause Behind Most Common Brick Problems
Water is the single biggest enemy of brickwork. The majority of common brick problems — spalling, efflorescence, mortar deterioration, rust staining — are caused or accelerated by moisture infiltration.
How water enters brickwork
Failed mortar joints: Gaps and cracks in mortar allow rain to penetrate directly into the wall cavity.
Missing or failed flashing: Flashing above windows, doors, and at the roofline directs water away from the wall. When it fails, water runs behind the brick veneer.
Clogged weep holes: Weep holes at the base of brick walls allow trapped moisture to drain. Blocked weep holes force water to sit inside the wall.
Ground splash: Rainwater bouncing off hard surfaces (concrete, paving) saturates the lower brick courses.
Capillary rise: Groundwater can wick upward through bricks and mortar, causing dampness on interior walls.
How to stop water infiltration
The fix depends on the entry point. Repoint failed mortar. Replace damaged flashing. Clear weep holes. Improve grading so water flows away from walls. Apply breathable sealant as a last line of defence. Never use non-breathable coatings — they trap moisture inside and accelerate damage.
Brick Discolouration and Fading: Cosmetic Common Brick Problems
While not structural, discolouration is one of the common brick problems that most affects curb appeal and property value.
Types of brick discolouration
UV fading: Prolonged sun exposure bleaches brick colour over decades. South-facing and west-facing walls fade fastest.
Organic staining: Algae, moss, and lichen create green or black patches, especially on shaded, damp walls.
Rust staining: Iron-containing bricks or adjacent metal components leach orange-brown stains when wet.
Smoke and soot: Buildings near roads, fireplaces, or industrial areas develop dark surface deposits over time.
How to restore brick colour
Cleaning: Low-pressure washing (under 500 PSI) with appropriate detergent removes most organic and surface staining. Avoid high-pressure washing, which erodes mortar joints.
Brick staining: Professional brick staining uses mineral-based pigments that penetrate the brick surface, restoring or changing colour permanently without affecting breathability.
DIY vs Professional Repair for Common Brick Problems
Knowing when to DIY and when to call a professional prevents costly mistakes:
Task | DIY? | Why |
Cleaning efflorescence | Yes | Simple brush and water, no structural risk |
Small mortar caulk repair | Yes | Ground-level hairline cracks only |
Replacing one brick (ground level) | Yes | With correct tools and matching brick |
Applying breathable sealant | Yes | Follow manufacturer instructions |
Full wall repointing | No | Requires correct depth, mortar matching |
Structural crack assessment | No | Needs professional or engineer evaluation |
Widespread spalling repair | No | Underlying cause must be identified first |
Any work above 2 metres | No | Safety risk, scaffolding required |
Historic or soft brick repair | No | Wrong mortar causes irreversible damage |
💡 The most expensive mistake
The most damaging DIY error we see is homeowners using Portland cement mortar to repoint soft or historic brick. The cement is harder than the brick, trapping moisture and causing the brick face to spall within 3–5 years. Replacing spalled bricks costs 5–10 times more than the original repointing job. If in doubt, call a professional.
How to Prevent Common Brick Problems
Prevention is always cheaper than repair. These maintenance practices protect against common brick problems:
- Annual visual inspection: Walk the full perimeter once per year. Look for cracks, mortar gaps, efflorescence, and spalling.
- Maintain gutters and downspouts: Overflowing gutters are the leading cause of water-related common brick problems. Clean twice yearly.
- Ensure proper grading: The ground should slope away from the foundation. Standing water against brick walls accelerates every type of deterioration.
- Repoint mortar every 25–30 years: Don’t wait for mortar to fail completely. Proactive repointing extends brick life by decades.
- Use breathable sealant: Apply vapour-permeable masonry sealant every 5–7 years. Never use non-breathable coatings.
- Address issues immediately: A $200 spot repair today prevents a $5,000 structural repair in 3 years.
Spotted Common Brick Problems on Your Property?
Don’t wait for cosmetic issues to become structural failures. North Shore Brickwork provides free brick assessments across Milwaukee and southeastern Wisconsin.
Contact North Shore Brickwork today for a free brick inspection.
FAQs | Common Brick Problems
Q: What are the most common brick problems?
The 8 most common brick problems are structural cracks, mortar deterioration, brick spalling, water infiltration, chipped or broken bricks, loose bricks, efflorescence (white salt deposits), and discolouration or fading. Mortar deterioration and water infiltration are by far the most frequent.
Q: How do I know if a brick crack is serious?
Cracks under 1 mm are usually minor and can be monitored. Cracks between 1–3 mm should be repointed and watched. Cracks over 3 mm, especially stair-step or horizontal patterns, require professional assessment. Any crack that is actively widening needs immediate evaluation.
Q: What causes brick spalling?
Brick spalling is primarily caused by freeze-thaw cycling — water enters the brick, freezes, and expands, breaking the surface. Other causes include wrong mortar type (too hard), non-breathable sealants, and salt crystallisation. Milwaukee’s climate makes spalling especially common.
Q: Can I fix common brick problems myself?
Some cosmetic issues like cleaning efflorescence, applying sealant, or replacing a single ground-level brick are DIY-friendly. However, structural cracks, widespread spalling, full repointing, and any work above 2 metres should always be handled by a professional.
Q: What causes white powder on bricks?
White powder (efflorescence) is caused by soluble salts being carried to the brick surface by moisture. As the water evaporates, it leaves salt crystals behind. It indicates moisture movement through the masonry and should prompt investigation of the water source.
Q: How do you fix crumbling mortar between bricks?
Crumbling mortar is fixed through repointing: removing the deteriorated mortar to 15–25 mm depth, cleaning the joint, dampening, and pressing in fresh colour-matched mortar. The replacement mortar must be compatible with the brick type.
Q: How much does it cost to fix common brick problems?
Costs range from $100 for efflorescence cleaning to $10,000+ for full wall repointing or structural crack repair. Individual brick replacement costs $10–35 per brick. Most homeowners spend $500–$3,000 on typical residential brick repairs.
Q: Does brick need to be sealed?
Breathable masonry sealant is recommended for most brick walls, especially in freeze-thaw climates like Milwaukee. However, never use non-breathable sealants or paint on brick — these trap moisture and cause spalling, creating worse problems than they solve.
Q: What is the biggest mistake in brick repair?
Using Portland cement mortar on soft or historic brick. The cement is harder than the brick, traps moisture, and causes the brick face to spall within 3–5 years. Always use mortar that is softer than the brick it bonds to.
Q: How often should I inspect my brickwork?
At minimum once per year with a visual walk-around. After severe weather events (storms, prolonged freezing), inspect for new damage. Professional masonry inspection is recommended every 10–15 years, or when you notice any signs of common brick problems.
